High torque. Great economy.
Excellent for towing. Excellent mid range power and torque.
Popular Mild Road cam. Needs exhaust and springs. Maximum performance and driveability in street modified engines. High Performance street cam.
Excellent mid range to top end power. Needs compression, exhaust and springs. Auto requires high stall. Needs triple Carbs, exhaust increased comp ratio and modified cylinder head. Needs increased comp ratio, exhaust modified head and springs. OEM Standard 2. MR Mild Road 4. CO Competition Only 8. TR Turbo Fast Road 9. Asansol lachhipur contact number is just a small selection of popular hydraulic flat tappet cam profiles for this engine.
Auckland Camshafts Limited carries a much wider range of profiles that suit this application. Please contact Auckland Cams if you require a different profile.This page is an attempt to provide some information and guidance for those wanting to build a higher output six cylinder Holden engine - specifically the red, blue or black straight sixes. It's based on my own admittedly limited experience with these engines, plus what I've been able to glean from others.
Reliable information for these old engines isn't easily available, and as usual anything you read in magazines should be taken with a big grain of salt - after all their primary responsibility is to their advertisers. The stuff you find on the web isn't necessarily any more credible, so use common sense and carefully consider anything you read before implementing it. Of course, that includes what's written here.
You'll notice that the information here isn't particularly detailed; it's more of an attempt to steer the reader in the right direction.
Vh blue 202- Setting timing/ moter cammed
You'll also notice that I tend to mix metric and imperial units - you'll just have to convert them yourself if that's a problem. Naturally, a page like this can never be complete, and I welcome suggestions and corrections. It's aimed at the builder with a limited budget, and is therefore focused on using the original Holden major components - eg. Mainly we will discuss naturally aspirated engines, though we may touch briefly on issues related to blown engines. The six is a reasonably light and compact engine compared to an iron V8, and can provide reasonable performance in a lightish car like an early Holden or Torana.
Having said that, the red motor wasn't a particularly advanced design even when it was first released and it's ultimately quite limited in output, mainly by the cylinder head design. As we will see later, the cylinder head is the key to making power with the six. The other limiting factor with regard to power production is block durability.
While they can handle as much as double the original horsepower without problems, further increases frequently result in a cracked or broken block, particularly when high rpms are used. Blown engines can easily make more power than the engine can reliably withstand - with enough boost power levels of over hp are possible if not sustainable.
Turbocharging works exceptionally well on these engines; making odd hp is easy, not only that but the power is made at rpm levels below those that cause block problems. Naturally aspirated, don't expect to get much more than around - hp for a streetable engine. This mightn't sound like a lot compared to todays injected V8s, but it's not unusual for a light street car with a hot six to get into the 13s without resorting to nitrous.
With exceptionally light cars like the early Toranas 12s are fairly easily achievable but the streetability of such an engine will be marginal. Not only will you get the peak horsepower, you'll get a wider powerband. I'll be blunt. If performance is the primary consideration and you don't have to use a particular engine to comply with rules then there are much better choices than the old Holden. Modern engines from Nissan or Toyota for example will out perform the old Aussie six by a massive margin - you won't even be in the race.
Another older engine with a fair bit more potential - mainly due to it's bigger displacement - is the old Hemi six. All of these engines will outperform the Holden and almost certainly cost less on a horsepower per dollar basis. If however, you don't need to make a million horsepower, or you'll be competing against similar engines, or perhaps you want to build up a cool old-school street car then the Holden six might do the job nicely.
Just don't kid yourself that you're going to show these young blokes with their turboed 2JZs a thing or two with the old six - you'll only embarass yourself. Before for you can start work, it's critical that you have some sort of plan in place in order to be able to choose components that work together and are suitable for the intended use.
But before you even start planning you should work out how much power is needed to be competitive, and roughly what sort of rev range will be associated with that power level. If, for example, it turns out that you need hp or that the powerband will be only rpm wide then at least you'll know not to waste any more time and money trying to build a winner from a and an Aussie 4 speed Be particularly careful about determining the usable rev range.
At the top end maximum revs will be largely determined by the strength of the reciprocating components, and these in turn may be limited by your budget. Dividing 2. If we now multiply our maximum rpm - say - by this figure we get rpm, the speed the engine will be doing when we change into second. You can calculate the rev range for each gear like this, but normally the biggest drop in revs will be in the lowest gears.
Dialling in a cam. All the topics i find on the net are for motors with timing chains or belts. How do you dial in a red 6 cam? Ive got a dial gauge and the motor's in pieces right now. I've also bought a set of adjustable gears needed new ones as old ones were horribly noisy even though they were helical cut and was thinking of retarding the cam 2degrees. Motor has an amazingly flat torque curve on the dyno readout so wouldn't mind moving the power up a tiny bit.
Roughly how far would the band move with a 2 degree retardation? I certainly don't want heavy retard so it's all top end. There are some computer programs on the web such as desktop dyno which, once you enter your specs will give you a theoretical HP and torq Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. I can set the cam timing no worries, thats straightforward, but this time i want to dial it in to check if it really is correct when i line up the dots, or if i can optimise it somehow.
Well see tonight if i get the honing done in time. You cannot post new topics in this forum. You cannot reply to topics in this forum. You cannot delete your posts in this forum. You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
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One major consideration is the type of Camshaft to be used in the car. The Camshaft determines the power output and the characteristics of the engine. So choosing the right Cam for the designed purpose of the car is of maximum priority. At Camtech Cams, we have over 30 years of recommending cams and have backed our knowledge and dyno results to deliver the right cam for the right job every time, giving you peace of mind. Call Now 02 or 02 Toggle navigation Menu. Featured Products.
PSI ML. View All. Welcome to Camtech Cams. Cam Recommendations: Let us do the hard work for you. By filling out our Cam Recommendation Form, this will allow us to take the time to advise you on the optimal camshaft for your engine. Fill yours out here. Learn more here. Questions and Comments: Do you have a question or comment about our website or products? We'd love to hear from you. Let us know by emailing; sales camtechcams. Make An Enquiry Talk to us!
We'll be happy to assist you. Please send me updates, information and relevant deals from Camtech Cams.Log in or Sign up. Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself. Recent Posts Contact Us. Just Commodores. Tags: air leak issue. Jun 5, 1. Cool car. Its like it has got a vacuum issue. It wont Ide, surges at low rev's, wont change gear until about rev's, no power etc It had a timing light on it.
And car run like a dream before the cam gear broke.
Any suggestions would be great help, im stuck! Last edited: Jun 6, Jun 5, 2. Did you strip the motor down or did you just change the cam gear? The reason I ask is that you need to rule out any valve damage. Easiest way is to use a borescope to look through the spark plug hole but if you can't get hold of one, you'll need to pull the head off and check it thoroughly.
Big-AlJun 5, Jun 5, 3. Here is a video showing exactly what I mean. Last edited by a moderator: Nov 21, Jun 5, 4. The aluminium gear is supposedly noisier but I couldn't hear it. Jun 5, 5. What cam is it? Ignition module may be bad, although unlikely if it was running perfectly well before.
What did you set the ignition timing at? To check for bent valves just take spark plugs off one at a time and see if all cylinders are firing. A bent intake valve will upset the flow of air and fuel to other cylinders too. EYYJun 5, Jun 5, 6. It isn't some thing simple like the wire has come off the idle stop solenoid on the carby? Has it got a Vacuum gauge on the dash is it bouncing around or reading low at idle?
Jun 6, 7. Jun 6, 8. Jun 6, 9.Back to the Engine Section. First of all we have the Initial Timing, this is the mark that you have set your timing up in relation to the timing mark on the front pulley, know as the Harmonic Balancer some engines have their timing mark on the Flywheel Here is how it works on most Oldholden owner engines, some would have either simple mechanical advance, or a combination of Centrifugal and Vacuum advance system built into the distributor.
Further details on vacuum tuning are here Vacuum Tuning.
Timing Gear Info
The rate of advance can be done by changing the weights or springs, as the mass of the weights and the springs' pressure will determine how quickly the curve reaches its maximum advance. You can also increase the advance by lengthening the slots on the advance plate.
This modification to your distributor is commonly know as re-graphing the Timing Curve. As vacuum increases to its maximum, so too does the pull on the rod pulling the advance plate advancing the timing, as this is required for the light load at idle, Manifold Vacuum It's different as its there all the time, while engine is running. The greater the vacuum the more advance. Insufficient vacuum advance results in poor part-throttle response as well as poor economy, so it would definitely pay to get your distributor regraphed to suite your engine needs.
The sudden aggressive shift in RPM would be noticed, and you would also lose some valuable fuel as well, so the vacuum advance movement sorts out the lumpy bits somewhat if you get my drift. Then, the next stage in the distributor timing comes into play, as the RPM for the mechanical advance is now reached so it can now carry on the smooth flow of the RPM. Note: There are some schools of thought that say, as we can no longer get Leaded fuel, then maybe it might be better if the vacuum be switched from "ported vacuum" above the butterfly to the "full manifold port".
You could connect straight manifold vacuum to the vacuum canister but it will add more ignition timing at idle, but if you have low manifold pressure and a big camshaft then it might be ok to experiment there. When I Switch back to Petrol then I change to 6 deg advance and re-apply the vacuum advance canister again. That doesn't mean that that's the best way to go, it's just something i'm experimenting with as I can change my static timing as I drive, ok.
It is the combination of the initial timing, plus mechanical timing Example: say initial timing is 8 degree advance, and mechanical timing is 24 degree advance, the combined combination adds up to 32 so the Total Timing is 32 degree advance.
The springs inside the distributor housing can be changed either one or both. By making them lighter it will make the advance occur faster, a heavier stronger spring will slow down the advance rate. You can file the stop weights as well depending on what you need to achieve in the in the Timing Curve. However that's not the best way to set it up. I really need to regraph my dizzy if i'm going for straight LPG, or a dual curve ignition if staying on duel fuel. Jump to: navigationsearch. Category : Engine.
Submission by HQJeff. End of submission by HQJeff. Fitting a new Set makes good sense. Quote this part number or Google it and see what you find. End of submission by myeh. Imperial camshaft gears have 46 teeth. Some Posters worry that they may be Deg out doing the Gear Alignment. Note it's only the Distributor installation that can be Deg out. If your Gears only have 2 Marks, just make sure the 2 Dots line up and that's all there is to Gear Alignment. Had to buy 10 but still worked out as cheap as buying 2 off the shelf.Holden v8 308ci,Fitting performance cam brgs,why and how to tips,tricks and trade sercrets revealed
I had pre-emptively got a drift made up by a local engineering outfit but didn't even need it. Sooooo easy - dont bother bashing it on. Stuart's Shed. Stripped Timing Gear. Jump to: navigationsearch. Later an Alloy Gear was used to replace the Fibre Gear.
Alloy Camshaft Gear from a Engine. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Stuart. Pieces of a stripped Fibre Gear from a blue 3. Photo by Ashley The Crankshaft Timing Gear is evident. Photo by Stock-EJ. Stripped fibre timing gear in a Photo by HG. Metal timing gear in a Photo by Ludwig